COLLECTION AUTUMN WINTER 2008 / 2009
The winter collection 2008/09 features art deco style elements that in addition to fluent, rounded up lines and luxurious, rich materials set a tendency for unadorned beauty of the interplay of geometric forms. Low waistlines, broad waistband hems of dresses and blouses, and the use of wool and silk fabrics with large patterns of stylized floral forms or pronounced surface structures also show this influence. The prevailing fabrics are soft, pliable wool in black, grey, chocolate brown, and pale sand, as well as delicate crêpe-silk in dull colours with rust-brown accents, deep red satin silk and tricot in differently interwoven colours, ranging from smoky petrol to deep red and grey.
The tendency towards close-to-the-body, arch-formed lines and smoothly falling fabrics, already visible in the summer collection, sets round, feminine forms in the foreground, but in some models it is as well reminiscent of the garçone-style. In spite of the abundance of fabric in some models, an elongated, slender outline prevails. An exception to this is for example a sand-coloured jacket made of very soft alpaca-wool, whose sleeves, as well as the body are cut in trumpet form. On its upper side it is finished with a round, wide collar; its ends point to the outside, thus anticipating the widening forms of the jacket towards its lower end. In its appearance the jacket reminds of a light coloured flower hanging downwards. In other models horizontal patterns, or portions of fabric and inserts ruffled or turned simply in opposite weaving direction are juxtaposed to the vertical flux of fabrics. Standing out in this category is a woollen fabric with coarse open-edge seams, running in parallel, spaced two fingers wide in-between and enveloping the cut in a pronounced graphic slanting or transversal pattern, thus producing a regularly undulating contour.
Apart from a close-fitting black suit with Bermuda shorts, other parts of the collection also stand out in their unusual craftwork. Optically as well as functionally interesting is for example a coat in black herringbone wool, consisting of two parts, of which the outer one can also be worn as sleeveless gilet. Further there is a jacket cut in arched lines at the lapels, waistband and coat-tail that half way on the lapel at the one side has a sewn-on multicoloured silk scarf, which on the other side, loosely bound, falls down to the coat-tail. On the back side, the silk fabric can again be found as the middle insert of the coat-tail. All in all, the collection offers glamorous as well as casual aspects, stressing comfortable wearing and feminine looks.